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| Ashok Ram, a trim and smart Maharashtran is the proud crew boss and Tiffin logistics manager in the Borivali area North of Central Mumbai, on the busy suburban district commuter train line. Under his management are thirty or so men who’s job it is to get the tiffin filled home-cooked lunches, lovingly prepared in the kitchens of wives and mothers, direct to their loved ones in the heart of the city. The word tiffin is taken from the English term for any container for food on the go, but the concept of tiffin box delivery was originally developed in India, where an intricate network of "dabbawallas" (Tiffin delivery men) has, for over a century made deliveries by foot, cart, bicycle and train.
Ashok Ram and his team very kindly let me accompany them, one balmy March morning, so that I could understand how this completely ecologically-sound concept works, managing to feed 200 000 hungry city dwellers a day, by men who are mostly illiterate and uneducated. It is a race against the clock which begins around 10 in the morning where the men start their rounds going from house to house collecting the Tiffin's eventually amassing them at a sorting point where other member’s of the team separate them out according to the different zones of the city. This is done by the colored markings on the top of each tin. Once all the Tiffin's are in their respective batches they are transferred to wooden hand-carts which hold up to 50 lunch boxes. The race against the clock is on and with lunch time fast approaching the Tiffin-Wallahs join the rest of the ‘varied’ modes of transport you find on Indian roads dodging busses, rickshaws, the ubiquitous black and yellow taxis and of course the sacred holy cows to deliver the lovingly prepared delights to hungry stomachs awaiting them. |
After a twenty minute white knuckle journey racing along with Ashok Ram’s hand cart we reach Nariman Point the financial heart of Mumbai. This is when Tiffin and owner are reunited and I have the opportunity to talk to some of the people who keep the Tiffin-wallahs in work. Rajesh Shah a rather portly looking accountant tells me that he has had his lunch delivered for as long as he can remember this way and isn’t in a hurry to change. “I know that the food in my Tiffin is healthy and clean as my mum made it for me.” He pauses and then with a slight hint of melancholy tells me, “The world these days are changing so fast especially here in India I want to make sure that some of our traditional ways still survive and so I will continue to use my Tiffin.”
India thrives on chaos and anarchy as seen by the untrained eye but in fact the tiffin system like so many other unique and resourceful ideas is a carefully developed and sophisticated system that has evolved through economic necessity. The whole delivery system uses a tiny amount of energy due to the use of bicycle and trains. There is so much to learn from so called ‘developing countries’ many of which put us to shame when looking at carbon waste. Here at the Thali café we owe the success of our Take away scheme to the efficient and hardworking men like Ashok Ram and his team in giving us the inspiration to helping Bristol become the first city to pioneer a bold and environmentally sound food revolution.
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